MAZZAR OF THE MYSTIC

Originally published on 1/20/2019

One of the most interesting places I saw in Tehran in my last trip there was the mazzar (tomb) of the 19th century dervish Safi Ali Shah- founder of the Nematollahi Safi’ali’shah order. The mazzar stands near Baharestan in the old central district of Tehran, upon immediately entering the shrine/ khaneqah you are transferred to a completely different world. Men who appeared to be dervishes themselves (identifiable by their long mustaches and long coats) sipped tea and were standing throughout the courtyard engaged in conversation or prayer.

The interior of the shrine was rich with the finest specimens of Qajar art, from the rosy colored plaster carvings on the walls, the handsome poly-chrome tiles that skirted the perimeter of the tomb chamber, and the delicate mosaic mirror compositions on the interior vaults. It is clear that the mazzar had received royal patronage from a time before Sufism was labeled as heretical by the state.

I attempted to photograph the mazzar but the caretakers were very cautious and reserved towards the idea. Only after extensive pleading and explaining my motives in architectural documentation was I permitted to take a few photographs from the inside the mazzar, this is one of those few photographs showing the actual tomb of Safi Ali Shah.